Rumney For Rookies

Headed to Rumney for the weekend and looking to get on some great climbs at/under the grade of 5.9?  You’ve found the right place! From some mega classics to a few obscure climbs that you’ll be able to get on even on the busiest of days, here are the Top 9 Climbs at or Under 5.9

1. Junco 5.8+

One of the most classic 5.8s in Rumney. A mix of some slab moves, some cracks and a few delicate moves gets you to the chains on this one.  Pulling onto the lower angle slab at the top and be a bit of a thrill! This one is up at Jimmy Cliff so it is a bit of a walk and can be busy, but totally worth your time if its open.

2. The Nuthatch 5.7

While you are up at Jimmy Cliff to hit Junco, The Nuthatch is just a few climbs to the left and one of my personal favorites at the grade.  While some despise this climb for some bizarre reason, I get on it almost every time I walk by. Do a bit of chimneying, stemming and even pull on a few big holes on this very 3 dimensional climb.  Be aware of some potential loose rock down low. Nothing you can’t avoid.  

3. Gold Digger 5.8+

On the right side of one of the most impressive rock faces in Rumney, Gold Digger is a great 8+ which is a spectacular into the Iron Man part of the Main Wall. Climb the right most corner through orange rock to a bit of slab before the big move. Trust your feet moving right and know that there is a savior jug waiting for you once you make it! A great intro to this amazing wall!

4. After All This Time 5.7

Louis on “After All This Time”

This one can be a bit tricky to find, but worth it!  This climb makes the list for the first few moves which are SO COOL! Start by stepping off of “The Balcony” over about 100 feet of air over the Orange Crush Cliff.  Trust your feet, because there aren’t great hands right away! Make some delicate moves up and left to easier climbing and arguably the best views of the Baker River Valley from the cliffs. 

Help Finding this Climb:  From the small parking lot start by following signs for Orange Crush. Keep up and right until passing New Wave. Go up the steep bit of trail after passing new wave. This will lead you to the Kennel Wall.  Head left just before the base of the Kennel wall that will wrap right around a corner of the cliff. Shortly after going around the corner, look for a faint trail heading left towards “The Balcony” where this climb is located. Be aware you are standing on top of another section of cliff with others below you!  There is plenty of space, but it is important to pay attention.

5. Metamorphosis 5.8+

Mega classic at Rumney. For that reason, it is best to wake up early or get out on a weekday if you want to get on this one without waiting. A nice long route that is a bit steep in the middle!  All there at 5.8+ but I’d imagine it may feel a bit tough if that is near your limit. That should not keep you from getting on it though! Make sure you have a full 60m rope and please tie a knot in the end to be safe! Barn Door Hostel’s 8 bed dorm is named after this climb!

6. Model Citizen 5.6

On the Right Side of the Main Wall, Model Citizen is an adventure at 5.6!  The climbing is all there but there is definitely some thoughtful moves throughout.  Very 3 dimensional climbing on an interesting section of the cliff. Most folks only climb the first pitch, but there is a very easy second pitch if you are looking to get up a bit higher.  If you are doing the second pitch, make sure you are prepared and have the skill sets to do so! The first pitch has the better climbing. 

7. California Chrome 5.9+

The Northwest Territories and so much easier to access with the addition of the 3rd parking lot in the last few years.  It is home to a ton of great 5.9s! This is a long climb with a small crux at the start, with easier slabby climbing in the middle, followed by a bit of an overhang at the top which makes for some great exposure!  Make sure you have a full 60m rope and tie knots on this one! Most of the climbs on this cliff are quality and can make for a really fun day.

8. The Big Easy 5.7

The first pitch of this is a lot of fun at 5.7!  Further to the right of Metamorphosis, this climbs another impressive section of the Main Cliff in the Armed and Dangerous area.  Some steep moves on jugs in the start, followed by a few moves on a vertical wall on smaller holds, but big enough to feel comfy on eventually lead to the anchors.  There are a lot of bolts on this section of cliff so make sure you check your book before leaving the ground so you know where you are heading!

9. Toxic Gumbo 5.8+

Start in a fun steep corner that is great to practice your stemming on.  Pull over the top of the corner into some slab moves with a few tricky bulges and steep bits along the way.  This is another long climb which is part of what makes this cliff so much fun. This climb, along with The Big Easy, and Metamorphosis are all close to each other and can be a ton of fun.  As I mentioned before, if you want to climb in this section of cliff, it is best to get an EARLY start on a weekend, or come during the week. Otherwise, skip the crowds and explore some of the other great climbs on this list, or find your own!

I hope you are able to get out and enjoy some of these climbs this Spring! Many of these are total classics that everyone loves, some are a few of my personal favorites that I love to get on each time I pass by them at the crag.  Thanks for reading and feel free to say hi if you see me in Rumney this climbing season!

About the Author:

Louis DeAngelis is an avid climber living in Plymouth, NH. He previously owned and operated Effortless Adventure, a Rental Camping Gear and Adventure Tourism Outfitter helping folks have great outdoor experiences.  Many of Effortless Adventure’s customers take advantage of Barn Door Hostel and Campground’s great Rumney location and facilities for some of their trips including several “Learn to Rock Climb” Keep an eye out for Louis on your next trip to Rumney!

Where to take a good shower in Rumney

Climbers are hard workers. Whether its spending the full day sweating on Rumney’s infamous hot south facing Main Cliff, or getting those feet filthy at the base while belaying your partner up Flesh for Lulu , Giant Man, or Technosurfing—climbers get dirty. Don’t forget the bug spray, random dirt scuff on your calf, scraped knee and uber chalky fingernails. Climbers want —nay—NEED showers before sliding into their brand new $200 sleeping bag they just picked up at REI. (REI is opening up a new location in North Conway September 2019) .

Very few climber friendly campgrounds offer shower facilities for their patrons. Shout out to Baker River Campground for having some! Barn Door Hostel and Campground also offers showers to campers —and hostel goers.

The shower in the camping area is powered by the sun! There is a propane heater that gets the water to a comfortable level as its pumped directly from a rainwater storage tank. You’ll need to provide your own towel and eco friendly soap, but damn does it feel good to take an outdoor shower after a long day at the crag.

The guests staying in the hostel have an even better treat. Barn Door Hostel has beds starting at around $30. But the real gem is in the bathrooms. Barn Door Hostel offers 4 foot wide shower stalls with rainfall shower heads that are mounted to the ceiling. Rumor has it, if you shower with the light off, the shower head glows. How romantic! Anyone with half a brain and roughly $30 (via cash, Venmo or credit card) can make the obvious choice to stay in the luxurious bed and wash away your shame because you whipped just after the third bolt of Sight Unseen. Don’t feel too bad, Ward Smith (the guy who literally wrote the book on Rumney) says about that climb “…took my first fall on a 5.6 in 38 years of climbing...”

Needless to say, if you’re a human, and you need a shower, come stay at the Barn Door Hostel.

Dave's Faves Volume 3 Weirs Beach

Dave’s Faves Volume 3

Weirs Beach

Weirs Beach holds a special place in my heart. My grandparents house was just 9 miles away. As a kid this place was like Disney without the creepy costumes. It has amazing ice cream, cheap arcades, scenic train rides, adventurous boat rides, one of America’s last drive in movie theaters and of course a beach. Growing up here was the life. Grab a slice of pizza on the corner and head across the board walk to the mini golf. Head down the street to the beach for a swim, then go to the (now closed) Surf Coaster water park

Now as a grown adult, there are new contenders for most fun to be had here...bars, bikes and boats.

Bars: The Crazy Gringo is a local staple. It serves up strong drinks and delicious Mexican-style food. There’s even a jalapeño eating contest. If you’re looking for live music and burgers head over to Tower Hill Tavern (pictured here). They’ve got sweet blues being played throughout the summer. And finally a MUST for any Weirs Beach goer is to check out The Dive (Dave’s Fave). Owner (of Barn Door Hostel) Dave Cook’s uncle helped build this floating oasis bar and grill that will occasionally be docked at the Weirs throughout the summer. If you don’t see it there, you’ve gotta get on the water (see Boats below).

Bikes: Weirs Beach is famous for Bike Week. Celebrating its 96th anniversary this year (the world’s oldest motorcycle rally), “Laconia Motorcycle Weekend” held at Weirs Beach is a week long festival filled with booze, bikes, races, live music, tattoos and pure mayhem. Historically this is a place of chaos and even death. 39 people have been killed over the past 19 years. Don’t forget in 1965 when 10,000 people started a riot on the beach and made New York Times headlines. In the past 10 years police have had a higher presence and enforced a strict “no-killing policy”. The event is more organized and secure while it hosts hundreds of vendors, motorcyclists and New Hampshire lovers. In 2019 the event is happening from June 8-16. The Barn Door Hostel is open for reservations and gladly welcomes any attendees.

Boats: Having a boat at Weirs Beach is essential if you want to broaden your horizons to the world of “Lake Life”. Not only will you be able to access The Dive Bar and Grill (pictured here) but you’ll have breathtaking views and endless shopping opportunities at one of the nearby towns of Meredith, Wolfeboro, and Alton. The best boat rentals can be found at Thurston’s Marina in the Weirs, or at Fay’s Boat Yard, just a short drive away. Both offer a variety of rental options, from several hours to several days.

For the less intense, check out the Drive In Movie theater (rumors of shutting down so go while you can!) or take a scenic ride on The M/S Mount Washington ship. Mount Washington Cruise tickets can be purchased at the boardwalk. They even offer dinner cruises!

Dave's Faves Volume 2 Livermore Falls

LiverMore Falls

Livermore Falls

Livermore Falls Recreation Area is located 12 miles (20 minutes) from the Barn Door Hostel and campground in Rumney New Hampshire. This place is dope! There’s an abandoned building, crumbling bridge, rope swing, cliff jumping, diy river tubing and sunbathing beach. This is a must do on any rest day for rock climbers. The park is accessible via two areas. One is on the west side of the river (closest to the Barn Door Hostel). This is accessed by parking along Daniel Webster Highway (Rt 3) and walking down a path over some old train tracks. You will soon find yourself standing face to face with an enormous rusty bridge. The other is to enter through the recreation area ($5 parking fee). Regardless of how you enter, there’s one thing that is blatantly obvious. This is the 103 foot high metal behemoth called Pumpkinseed bridge.

It was built above the Pemigewasset River and Livermore Falls in 1886 for $7,000. The bridge served horses, wagons and foot traffic in those early years, before motor vehicles began rumbling over in the 20th century.

Then came industry – pulp mills, tanneries and a fiberwood company. The nearby railroad that hugs the river hauled logs in. The bridge opened the area to incoming materials and outgoing goods as the machinery hummed and the smokestacks smoked.

It closed in 1959, its east span cut loose and allowed to drop into the river to stop further crossings. Then came the changes and the history and the jumping and the confusion.

Through the decades, the three towns tried to figure out what to do with this great structure that survived world wars and the depression and the Cold War.

The remains of the stone and brick mills are in view, foundations of another era with huge trees jutting from their insides.

But check through the historical data online. Read the timelines and the backstories. Talk to the people who have lived near the tri-town paradise for decades.

They know about some things. There were study commissions formed, meetings held, and an attempt to convert a mill into a hydroelectric plant.

Years have passed and nearly 42 acres became state property in 1992 through a Land Conservation Improvement Program grant. The state owns the Recreation Area,  which has a parking lot, picnic tables, bathrooms and grills.

Meanwhile, the area remained beautiful, its roaring rapids at the falls and massive cliffs creating jaw-dropping scenes. Add sandy beaches and thousands of trees that burst into color during the fall in postcard-like fashion, and at least there was one thing everyone could agree on: this place is awesome.

Either side of the river provides sandy beaches and breathtaking views. The old abandoned mill is accessible from Daniel Webster Highway. If you want to jump off the cliffs or utilize the rope swing, you’ll need to access the cliffs from the Recreation Area (or swim across the river). This is a very dangerous place, swimming, jumping, swinging, climbing may not be legal. Enter and participate at your own risk. For the less adrenaline driven, pack a picnic and a tube, enter through the Recreation Area and relax in the hot New Hampshire sun. Any given day you’ll find families jumping from the lower rocks, teens showing off to their sweethearts on the higher rocks, and the more experienced (or dumb) will risk life and limb traversing across the bridge to make the 103 foot plunge into the roaring river below.

Any time you go, please do the community a favor and pick up any trash you come across. There are receptacles in the recreation area as well as a composting toilet.

Dave’s Faves Volume 1 Rumney Village Store - The Country Store With More

Rumney Village Store

Rumney Village Store - The Country Store With More

Proprietors of the Rumney Village Store George and Sheila Bonfiglio and their beloved dogs are heros of Rumney New Hampshire and bring a much needed service to the community. After eighteen months of extensive renovation they opened their doors for business on May 20, 2017.

The “Store" is a beauty...built in 1850 as a blacksmith shop, later being converted to a mercantile. It has almost continuously operated as one of Rumney's general stores since 1865.  Rumney, New Hampshire is a quiet New England Village nestled in the Southern region of the White Mountains National Park in central New Hampshire, steeped in history and a four season tourist destination. Sheila and George say they “are blessed to now call this area our home.”

The “More” consists of a retail shop of some locally made items including honeys (Dave’s Fave), jams, cookie mixes and the like. They also sell local artwork, handmade clothing, seasonal items, groceries, and sundry item. But the shining gem of this amazing store is the food. Every rock climber, Appalachian Trail hiker, and outdoor enthusiast needs a delicious meal, a cold beer, and a good bed to sleep in.

The Rumney Village Store has a deli where you can order phenomenal breakfast sandwiches on the weekends. George used to own a restaurant in Massachusetts and he knows how to make one hell of a bacon egg and cheese. If breakfast isn't your thing (you’re not human...but anyway) you can grab a classic deli sandwich, meatball sub or one of their piping hot soups. Their beer is frosty cold and they carry a well rounded selection of local and nationwide crafts as well as the classics made by the bigger companies. Dave’s Fave are the Squam Lake bottles located next to their wines. Squam Brewing is located just a few miles from the Barn Door Hostel and Rumney Village Store.

Don’t forget about dinner, George and Sheila whip up family size italian dishes several nights a week including chicken parm, pizza (Dave’s Fave is broccoli and onion) and baked ziti. For dessert, you’ll have to call ahead as their pies are made fresh and sell fast! If you have rented a bunk or are camping in your tent at the Barn Door Hostel, you can easily walk to the Rumney Village Store. They are located just 0.9 miles away from the Barn Door Hostel. The Rumney Village Store is at 453 Main St. Rumney, NH 03266. You can call to order a head, their number is 603-786-6020.

Make sure to look for the Dave’s Faves map in the hostel. Rumney Village Store will always be #1 on the list.