Headed to Rumney for the weekend and looking to get on some great climbs at/under the grade of 5.9? You’ve found the right place! From some mega classics to a few obscure climbs that you’ll be able to get on even on the busiest of days, here are the Top 9 Climbs at or Under 5.9
1. Junco 5.8+
One of the most classic 5.8s in Rumney. A mix of some slab moves, some cracks and a few delicate moves gets you to the chains on this one. Pulling onto the lower angle slab at the top and be a bit of a thrill! This one is up at Jimmy Cliff so it is a bit of a walk and can be busy, but totally worth your time if its open.
While you are up at Jimmy Cliff to hit Junco, The Nuthatch is just a few climbs to the left and one of my personal favorites at the grade. While some despise this climb for some bizarre reason, I get on it almost every time I walk by. Do a bit of chimneying, stemming and even pull on a few big holes on this very 3 dimensional climb. Be aware of some potential loose rock down low. Nothing you can’t avoid.
On the right side of one of the most impressive rock faces in Rumney, Gold Digger is a great 8+ which is a spectacular into the Iron Man part of the Main Wall. Climb the right most corner through orange rock to a bit of slab before the big move. Trust your feet moving right and know that there is a savior jug waiting for you once you make it! A great intro to this amazing wall!
Louis on “After All This Time”
This one can be a bit tricky to find, but worth it! This climb makes the list for the first few moves which are SO COOL! Start by stepping off of “The Balcony” over about 100 feet of air over the Orange Crush Cliff. Trust your feet, because there aren’t great hands right away! Make some delicate moves up and left to easier climbing and arguably the best views of the Baker River Valley from the cliffs.
Help Finding this Climb: From the small parking lot start by following signs for Orange Crush. Keep up and right until passing New Wave. Go up the steep bit of trail after passing new wave. This will lead you to the Kennel Wall. Head left just before the base of the Kennel wall that will wrap right around a corner of the cliff. Shortly after going around the corner, look for a faint trail heading left towards “The Balcony” where this climb is located. Be aware you are standing on top of another section of cliff with others below you! There is plenty of space, but it is important to pay attention.
Mega classic at Rumney. For that reason, it is best to wake up early or get out on a weekday if you want to get on this one without waiting. A nice long route that is a bit steep in the middle! All there at 5.8+ but I’d imagine it may feel a bit tough if that is near your limit. That should not keep you from getting on it though! Make sure you have a full 60m rope and please tie a knot in the end to be safe! Barn Door Hostel’s 8 bed dorm is named after this climb!
On the Right Side of the Main Wall, Model Citizen is an adventure at 5.6! The climbing is all there but there is definitely some thoughtful moves throughout. Very 3 dimensional climbing on an interesting section of the cliff. Most folks only climb the first pitch, but there is a very easy second pitch if you are looking to get up a bit higher. If you are doing the second pitch, make sure you are prepared and have the skill sets to do so! The first pitch has the better climbing.
The Northwest Territories and so much easier to access with the addition of the 3rd parking lot in the last few years. It is home to a ton of great 5.9s! This is a long climb with a small crux at the start, with easier slabby climbing in the middle, followed by a bit of an overhang at the top which makes for some great exposure! Make sure you have a full 60m rope and tie knots on this one! Most of the climbs on this cliff are quality and can make for a really fun day.
The first pitch of this is a lot of fun at 5.7! Further to the right of Metamorphosis, this climbs another impressive section of the Main Cliff in the Armed and Dangerous area. Some steep moves on jugs in the start, followed by a few moves on a vertical wall on smaller holds, but big enough to feel comfy on eventually lead to the anchors. There are a lot of bolts on this section of cliff so make sure you check your book before leaving the ground so you know where you are heading!
Start in a fun steep corner that is great to practice your stemming on. Pull over the top of the corner into some slab moves with a few tricky bulges and steep bits along the way. This is another long climb which is part of what makes this cliff so much fun. This climb, along with The Big Easy, and Metamorphosis are all close to each other and can be a ton of fun. As I mentioned before, if you want to climb in this section of cliff, it is best to get an EARLY start on a weekend, or come during the week. Otherwise, skip the crowds and explore some of the other great climbs on this list, or find your own!
I hope you are able to get out and enjoy some of these climbs this Spring! Many of these are total classics that everyone loves, some are a few of my personal favorites that I love to get on each time I pass by them at the crag. Thanks for reading and feel free to say hi if you see me in Rumney this climbing season!
About the Author:
Louis DeAngelis is an avid climber living in Plymouth, NH. He previously owned and operated Effortless Adventure, a Rental Camping Gear and Adventure Tourism Outfitter helping folks have great outdoor experiences. Many of Effortless Adventure’s customers take advantage of Barn Door Hostel and Campground’s great Rumney location and facilities for some of their trips including several “Learn to Rock Climb” Keep an eye out for Louis on your next trip to Rumney!